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L is for Luton

Our series of posts helping you to explore our county is an A-Z of Bedfordshire places, landscapes and history. Each post includes tips for walks and places to visit.

In this instalment we put the spotlight on Bedfordshire’s largest town, Luton. It grew up in a gap in the Chiltern Hills, on the River Lea, beginning as a farming community and then spending most of its history as a small agricultural town. The population boomed in the nineteenth century with the growth of the hat industry and again with the later arrival of engineering and car manufacturing firms.

Here, we’re focusing on Luton’s green spaces, the countryside sites within easy reach of the town, and some of its history and heritage.

History and heritage

The ruins of Someries Castle can be found to the south of Luton, close to the airport. The manor house dates from the 1400s and was one of the earliest buildings in the country to be built from brick. It was mostly demolished in the 1700s but the ruins, including the remains of the gatehouse, can still be seen. The site is a scheduled ancient monument.

Wardown House is today a Museum and Gallery. The Grade II listed building is set in Wardown Park. The Park was created in 1910 when a group of local councillors and civic leaders arranged for the house, park and gardens to be purchased on behalf of the people of Luton. A recent restoration project has seen the boating lake and historic features such as the suspension bridge and fountain be refreshed, and the green spaces have been enhanced for both people and nature.

Stockwood Park has been managed by Luton Council since 1945, having previously been the home of the Crawley family. Today the site includes a Discovery Centre which focuses on local social history, archaeology, geology and rural crafts. You will also find several themed and period gardens. There are Victorian greenhouses and a fernery to explore.

A shady metal arch corridor with plants growing over it, leading towards gardens. — Stockwood Park is home to a variety of gardens and green spaces.

Parks and gardens

Six of Luton’s Park are Green Flag winners, Wardown Park and Stockwood Park have already been mentioned. The others are Brantwood Park, which was purchased by the Town Council in 1894; Memorial Park which was created in the 1920s and honours those who served in the First World War. People’s Park incorporates a recreation ground, woodland, meadow and a County Wildlife Site which is home to a number of rare plants. Leagrave Park is the source of the River Lea, which is a tributary of the River Thames. You can also visit Wauluds Bank, a Neolithic earthwork enclosure dating to around 4,500 years ago. The park includes Leagrave Common which is a County Wildlife Site.

Countryside sites

Luton lies close to the Chilterns National Landscape and is within easy access of the Chiltern Hills and a whole range of chalk grassland sites.

Luton’s first nature reserve was Galley and Warden Hills. The ancient Icknield Way passes through the hills and two Bronze Age Barrows or burial sites were excavated in the 1960s. Like much of the surrounding countryside, Galley and Warden Hills are managed to protect the rare chalk grassland habitat.

A wildflower lined chalk path leading to a wooden gate. The view opens out to open countryside and the edges of an urban scene. — Chalk paths lead through the countryside on Luton’s doorstep.

The Sundon Hills Country Park is just north of the town and includes chalk grassland and beech woodland. There are stunning views towards Sharpenhoe and across the surrounding countryside. It’s a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) and is home to a variety of chalkland specialists, both flowers and butterflies, which can be seen in spring and early summer.

Bradger’s Hill, Dallow Downs and Blow’s Downs are all worth visiting by birdwatchers and nature lovers. You can also spot signs of medieval farming terraces and enjoy good views.

Chalk grassland with wildflowers. — Chalk grassland is an important wildflower habitat.

Limbury Meads and Cowslip Meadow Nature Reserve are important wetland sites for Luton. Limbury Meads provides a walk by the River Lea in north Luton. From the riverside path look out for herons, kingfishers and water voles. You might also spot buzzards and sparrowhawks overhead. Cowslip Meadow is a patchwork of ponds and pools and is a designated SSSI.

Woodland sites include Bramingham Wood and Kidney Wood, both of which are ancient woodlands and are home to displays of bluebells in the spring. Bramingham Wood features on the Woodland Trust’s list of Top Ten Bluebell Woods and is also home to some rare species of fungi.

Orchards

Luton Orchards is a recent project to map Luton’s orchards, discovering what has been lost and what still exists, piecing together Luton’s fruit growing history. They found 18 sites within the Borough and a further two just outside. One of these is the Bide-a-While Orchard and Garden, which was created in the 1920s by George Farr. It includes a small ornamental garden full of spring colour, an orchard and access to the River Lea.

Walks and trails

There are lots of walks and trails to help you explore the town. The Luton Hat Trail comprises two short walks taking in factory and warehouse architecture and more modest scale domestic workshops. It’s a great way to discover more about a fascinating piece of social history.

The Upper Lea Valley Walk will take you from the source of the River Lea through Luton to the boundary where it meets with the longer Lea Valley Walk on its way to London. It starts in Leagrave Park and follows the linear parks of the River Lea. This one is for people looking to discover the greener side of Luton.

Screenshot of the Upper Lea Valley Walk leaflet. — The Upper Lea valley Walk begins in Leagrave Park.

Luton Borough Council has created a series of walking routes which explore different areas of the town. There’s something for everyone, whether your preference is for historic buildings or ancient paths.